We t ‘s the cardio from Turkey. Konya, a neighbor hood regarding a million souls, squats smack in Anatolia’s nuts plain, surrounded by discover, limitless prairie. Turkey’s very culturally conservative urban area, Konya looks in the beginning to-be an area from tight headscarves and you may foreboding beards, off ostentatiously seen pieties and you may forbidden beers. However, uncovering Konya is straightforward – to have right here, in the centre of your dated area, inside the tomb away from turquoise ceramic tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is amongst the earth’s really realize poets. Throughout the their life, and because their dying inside the 1273, pilgrims came to Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb is actually Turkey’s 2nd really-visited customers appeal pursuing the Topkapi Castle from inside the Istanbul. Rumi is actually a mystic, a great Sufi saint who appreciated all the religions, and you can whose very own religion is actually like. His supporters create (and still would) eradicate themselves during the trance and you will dance, possibly rotating eg tops throughout the day.
There can be an enormous, epic brand new civil auditorium in which this tender spinning people ballet are performed, and one level of charming sleek-eyed mystics within the carpet sites, cafes and you can medieval bazaars, all the pleased so you can receive that an exclusive zikhr
This type of spinning dervishes are actually this new symbol off Turkey’s tourist tricks, and you will sip tea in your Istanbul hotel lobby watching particular worst bloke from inside the a tall beige sensed hat spinning having the amusement. To your real deal, even in the event, already been heree to help you Konya and you arrived at Turkey’s soul. Inside Rumi’s terms:
“Anyone who you are, been Even though you could be An enthusiastic infidel, an excellent pagan, otherwise a fireworshipper, been Our very own brotherhood is not one of anxiety However has actually broken Your own vows of repentance a hundred minutes, become.”
Every 12 months as 1983, I have been upcoming into one or two million-or-thus visitors exactly who head to Konya a-year. Some are Turkish, some Iranians (who claim Rumi as their own, due to the fact he had written inside their words and you may grew up in eastern Persia) plus improve pilgrimage.
In the place of while making Konya a stop into the a shuttle journey, Se pГҐ dette nettstedet I would suggest existence for some weeks, taking in the feeling, eating several of Turkey’s finest mutton, watching the finest Seljuk tissues and you can – possibly – falling crazy about Rumi. You could fly into the affordably out of Istanbul, where there is also a great scruffy, atmospheric teach, or are available by-road. Konya is within simple come to of the cavern dwellers and you can carpeting providers out-of Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived right here since the a beneficial boy, whenever Konya had been a region for a couple of,000 age. It had been based because of the Hittites, have been succeeded of the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the kings from Pergamon while the Romans, which known as put Iconium. Saints Paul and you will Barnabus one another preached right here, but of the 1071 the Seljuks, an effective Turcoman group, was in charge, in addition to their structural legacy suffers.
Its Karatay Medrese out-of 1251 was a masterpiece off embellished tiling and harmonious domes. It’s today this new Art gallery away from Tiles and you may Ceramics, whose content maintain the vibrancy and punch they had whenever earliest fired. Nearby, brand new Ince Minarali Medrese is actually the newest Museum regarding Brick and you will Wood Sculpture, that is a lot less inactive than simply I have managed to make it sound. Both of these structures whet urge for food to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and also the stunning Sahip Ata mosque: unlike a lot of brand new Muslim community, inside the Poultry you are encouraged to go to mosques, almost any the religious choice.
At the junction of the dated town and its unattractive the new neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the newest city’s vantage point, whose beautiful ebony pulpit and you may painful and sensitive prayer-market come from 1155 (the brand new cutting-edge try completed in 1221). Brand new boulevard radiating from here will bring that Rumi’s tomb, from which so much more later on. Rumi is recognized to Turks just like the Mevlana (the Sainted One to), now Konya is actually thrall to Mevlanamania.
While i basic arrived, Mevlana’s followers, the brand new Mevlevi, was basically a banned organization, tolerated only for its “folkloric moving” and you will whirlings. Meetings were held covertly, illegally.
I mentioned dining, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric cooking is excellent. Etli ekmek was an extended, narrow roll-upwards pizza give that have delicately spiced mince, and you may Konya kebab was a lamb shank, really slowly roasted and you will served toward a support regarding cash having a sweet purple onion. The best is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soup and you can do-it-yourself yogurt are eden-generated.
Therefore, beautifully provided, with many cups of sweet tannic teas inside you, help make your cure for Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, the fresh new interested and fervent. A mysterious twinkly white performs for the tombs regarding Rumi and you will his supporters. The brand new structure try stitched having calligraphy, and also the ceilings was good kaleidoscope out-of splendidly conducted arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included into the significantly padded cloth of gold, and you can seems to shine white and you will tranquility and you can compassion.
Are all gone, to have the following is love
A number of your other pilgrims tend to read Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Most take photographs, although this is strictly taboo. You’ll find those who weep silently, and those who laugh out loud; individuals who meditate for hours on end, and those who rush courtesy.
To play privately and you will insinuating in itself to your awareness is the ney, a reed flute. It may sound such breathy heavens, but is actually the voice away from flames, which increases and you will falls to the people. This isn’t specific sullen religious moaning, nevertheless sound regarding wanting, off communion, of cardio. You have it – it’s heart music, also it most supplies you with. Very come.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies so you’re able to Konya through Istanbul off Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, out-of ?219 rtn inc taxation. Istanbul so you can Konya by train will cost you throughout ?24 return, or around ?thirty-six get back because of the coach. Resorts Balikcilar possess bedroom or around ?70 (and then have caters to cool beers). Hotel Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) bedroom up to ?20. Passes observe the whirling dervishes is actually without this new visitors work environment, about Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum on SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges personal whirling and you may zikhr away from ?30pp.